As soon as I booked my flights for a trip to Mexico City last December, I scouted out a food tour for the first morning of my vacation. I settled on one from Eat Like a Local – a salsa-soaked, taco-fueled 16-stop marathon featuring some of the best foods that Mexico City’s markets and street vendors have to offer. When I arrived in Mexico’s capital several weeks later, I woke up with energy and an appetite.

After a coffee and concha, the first savory stop of the day was a cart set up at a quiet, tree-lined intersection in the Condesa neighborhood. The vendor, Don Antonio, has been selling tacos de canasta, or basket tacos, for several decades, waking up in the wee hours of the morning to prepare them so they’re ready for hungry commuters.

As the name suggests, the warmed tortillas are stuffed with simple fillings, folded and piled high in a towel- and plastic-bag-lined basket. Unlike the more familiar tacos that are assembled and served a la minute, tacos de canasta are prepared in advance – and in bulk. This makes them popular among street food vendors and consumers: The former can transport hundreds of prepared tacos on the back of a bike, and the latter can enjoy a warm, quick snack or meal on the go.

We were given a choice of fillings: chicharrón, chorizo, adobo, refried beans or potato. Per our guide’s recommendation, I opted for the potato. Instantly, Don Antonio pulled one from his large picnic-style basket, obscured by a checkered cloth serving as a last line of heat-retaining defense, and handed it to me. The taco was small and still warm, the tortilla almost sealed together from the steam. I’ll admit that I wasn’t expecting much; I’d had hundreds of tacos before, good ones. The taco in my hand didn’t appear to be anything out of the ordinary.

One bite made me swallow my preconceived notions. The steamed corn tortilla was soft and fragrant, and the pillowy potato filling carried whispers of chile. It was life-affirmingly greasy. (Mexico City food writer Nicholas Gilman describes the oil they’re covered in as “good, red, chile-infused, soul-warming grease.”) The taco made a delightful vessel for the fresh green salsa, but it needed no accompaniment to shine. It was an edible reminder that great things come in simple and small packages. Despite earlier cautions to pace ourselves, when we were offered a second taco, I said yes without hesitation. By the end of the tour, it was still the best thing I’d eaten that day.

The exact origins of tacos de canasta are murky. According to “La Tacopedia,” an encyclopedia of Mexico’s many tacos compiled by Deborah Holtz and Juan Carlos Mena, the style of taco may date back to the pre-Hispanic age, with the modern basket replacing ancient containers and carriers such as chiquites and itacates.

But University of Toronto history professor and author Jeffrey M. Pilcher writes in “Planet Taco” that before basket tacos were a street food staple, they were called “tacos de mineros,” named after the miners that packed them as a convenient work lunch. Eventually, the miners brought them to Mexico City, where they first gained favor among the working class and in the early 20th century “spread across the country and up the social ladder,” according to Pilcher.

The same qualities that make tacos de canasta a quintessential street food – affordable, abundant, easily transportable – similarly make them a natural choice for parties and picnics (basket already included). Making tacos to order can be a logistical nightmare for a large group of people. These offer a way to feed everyone at the same time.

When cooking these tacos at home, there are a few things to consider. Although making them in a basket is fun and captures the essence of the tacos, they can also be kept in a large pot, or even a bamboo steamer. The layers of towels, plastic bags and parchment paper are what really keep the tacos insulated.

As with all taco styles, a great taco hinges on a great tortilla. Fresh, refrigerated corn tortillas are always preferable, because they soften more easily and are less likely to dry out. They also possess a more fragrant corn flavor – a subtle but important element when working with such few and simple ingredients. Fillings vary, and you can use any of your favorites, though those on the drier side are helpful to avoid spillage and mess. I went for both potato and chorizo fillings to provide variety, but a combination of the two is another classic option.

Once you prepare the fillings and an aromatic guajillo chile oil, assembly is a breeze. Working quickly to preserve the heat, you stuff the oven-warmed tortillas with a couple of tablespoons of filling, fold in half and add to the lined basket. After one layer of tacos goes down, you spread across a handful of thinly sliced onions and ladle over the hot chile oil. Traditionally, taqueros douse the tacos in ladles of hot oil (maybe it’s not a wonder why they taste so good), with the absorbent, grease-loving tortillas and several layers of thick parchment paper acting as a barrier to the plastic bag. But in a home kitchen, a few spoonfuls suffice.

When a few layers of tacos are nestled in the basket, the plastic bag is sealed, trapping the heat inside. I recommend laying another towel on top, just to ensure that no steam escapes. A half-hour wait is the minimum, but I’ve found that patience is rewarded with a softer, more flavorful taco.

Though I’ll admit that part of the delight of my first taco de canasta was eating new-to-me street food on a beautiful day in a new-to-me city, I’m finding a new dimension of enjoyment in doing the hard work in my kitchen and sharing the delicious results with my loved ones.

These tacos are my new go-to party food and will probably be found at all the potlucks, picnics and backyard parties in my future. I hope they make an appearance at yours, too.

Tacos de Canasta (Basket Tacos)

6-12 servings (makes 24 tacos)

Tacos de canasta, or basket tacos, are a staple of the Mexico City street food scene. Also known as tacos sudados (“sweaty tacos”), they are assembled by the dozens with a wide variety of fillings, and kept warm and steamy in a towel-and-plastic-lined basket. This easily transportable vessel makes these tacos a great option for picnics and parties. This recipe opts for potato and chorizo fillings, but you can use any of your favorite taco fillings (though drier options tend to fare better, as they don’t saturate the tortillas). If you don’t have a basket, a pot or bamboo steamer will work well.

Make ahead: The chile oil, potato filling and chorizo filling can be prepared and refrigerated separately up to 2 days in advance.

Storage: The tacos are best when eaten immediately. Reheat leftovers in a skillet over medium-high heat.

Where to buy: Guajillo chiles and fresh corn tortillas can be found at well-stocked supermarkets and Latin grocery stores.

FOR THE GUAJILLO CHILE OIL:

1 large white onion (12 ounces)

1 cup canola oil or other neutral oil

5 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded

3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

1/4 teaspoon fine salt

FOR THE TACOS AND FILLINGS:

24 (6-inch) corn tortillas, preferably fresh/refrigerated, such as El Milagro brand

1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1/4 teaspoon fine salt, plus more as needed

1 tablespoon canola oil or other neural oil

12 ounces Mexican chorizo, meat or plant-based

salsa verde, for serving (optional)

pickled jalapeños, carrots and/or onions, for serving (optional)

Make the chile oil: Halve the onion through the root; peel and coarsely chop one of the halves and thinly slice the other half. Set aside the sliced onion; you will need it while making the tacos.

In a 10-inch skillet with tall sides over medium heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the chopped onion, the chiles and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic starts to turn golden brown and the chiles become a more vibrant red, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool completely.

Transfer the mixture to a blender, add the salt and blend on high until mostly smooth – some flecks of chiles are fine. Strain the oil into a bowl through a fine-mesh strainer. You can speed up the process by moving the solids around with a spatula or spoon in the strainer, but don’t push them through. The oil in the bowl should be clear and vibrant red-orange. You should have about 1 cup.

Make the tacos and fillings: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 300 degrees. Wrap four stacks of 6 tortillas in aluminum foil and warm in the oven for 30 minutes, using a large sheet pan for ease, if desired. Remove the stacks from the oven and turn off the heat, but keep the tortillas in the foil.

Meanwhile, in a large pot, combine the potatoes, a generous amount of salt and enough cold water to cover by about 2 inches. Set over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, or lower as needed, until the water is simmering gently, and cook until the potatoes are very tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Return the pot to medium heat, add 1/4 cup of the guajillo chile oil and heat until shimmering. Return the potatoes to the pot, season with the salt and cook, roughly mashing them with a spatula or spoon, until the potatoes are mostly smooth and the oil is fully incorporated. Turn off the heat and cover to keep warm until ready to assemble.

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the canola or neutral oil until shimmering. Add the chorizo and cook, stirring occasionally and breaking it up with a spoon until the meat is mostly crumbled, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Line a large basket or pot with clean kitchen towels so there is a generous overhang all around. Then, line with a plastic bag – you can use a grocery bag, small unscented garbage bag or a heat-resistant cooking bag. Finally, line with a few sheets of parchment paper so the plastic is completely covered and there is generous overhang all around.

Create a taco-filling station with the tortillas, both fillings, and the lined basket or pot easily accessible. In a small saucepan over medium heat, heat the remaining 3/4 cup of chile oil until shimmering. Take a tortilla from one of the foil-wrapped stacks (keep the other tortillas in the stack covered), fill with 2 heaping tablespoons of potato filling, fold in half and place at the bottom of the basket. Repeat two more times with the potato filling on one side of the basket, and then three more times with the chorizo filling on the other side of the basket. (It is fine if the tacos overlap.) Once there are 6 tacos on the bottom, scatter one-quarter of the sliced onion on top. Carefully drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons of the chile oil over the top, and use a pastry brush or spoon to help evenly distribute.

Repeat the filling and stacking with the remaining 3 stacks of tortillas, ending with a layer of onions and chile oil. (You should end up with 12 potato and 12 chorizo tacos.) When finished, fold over the parchment paper overhang and close the plastic bag tightly by making a knot with the excess at the top or with a rubber band. Steam for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.

Open the bag and serve right away, with your favorite toppings, such as salsa and pickled vegetables, if using.

Variations: To streamline the recipe, combine the potatoes and chorizo into one filling. When the potatoes are draining in the colander, in a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons of the chile oil. Add the chorizo and cook, stirring occasionally and breaking it up with your spoon, until the meat is mostly crumbled, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the potatoes to the skillet, stirring and roughly mashing them with a spatula or spoon until mostly smooth and fully combined with the chorizo. Remove from the heat, cover and keep warm until ready to assemble.

Notes: If making only potato filling, double the amount of potatoes; if making only chorizo filling, double the amount of canola oil and chorizo.

Nutrition per serving (1 chorizo taco and 1 potato taco), based on 12: 468 calories, 41g carbohydrates, 30mg cholesterol, 26g fat, 3g fiber, 17g protein, 2g saturated fat, 685mg sodium, 2g sugar

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