They range from a deep forest green to a brilliant tangerine. Round or oblong, trumpet-shaped or symmetrical, they can get as big as some small cars or be small enough to fit into a child’s palm. They are the symbol of fall, decorating tables, flower boxes and porches across the country. Pumpkins and squash are as varied as the ways we use them, but one thing is constant: When a chill begins to hit the air, they begin to hit our dinner menus.

Both summer and winter squashes grow on rangy, low-growing vines that can take over a garden if you don’t watch out. But summer squashes are thin-skinned, short keepers and best cooked briefly, while winter squashes are so named because they can be kept in a well-managed root cellar all through the cold months. Use them up just as the spring greens are emerging. Their skins are tougher (the reason they keep so well), and the flesh ranges from moist to quite dry (though a few types, such as delicata, have thinner, edible skins).

Acorn squash

Varieties of winter squash

ACORN – A versatile squash, suitable for both stuffing and roasting whole. Their beautiful ridges make acorn squash impossible to peel.

BUTTERCUP – This squash has a foggy, forest-green skin with gray stripes, fairly straight sides and a shape like a rounded cylinder. The flesh is deep yellow and is dense and somewhat dry. Moist heat, such as steaming or baking in a little water, works best.

BUTTERNUT – It’s easy to peel this popular variety, which has blush-colored flesh and the shape of a gourd. It holds its shape when roasted, but also works well steamed and mashed.

CARVING PUMPKINS – These are the monstrous pumpkins that decorate our porches and make wonderfully scary lanterns. They do not make good eating.

DELICATA – The skin is edible, the flesh nutty and creamy. Delicatas are small, oblong, and striped. They don’t keep as long as other winter squashes but make up for that in versatility and flavor. They lend themselves to grilling, roasting and other dry-heat methods.

HUBBARD – Usually a beautiful gray/blue, this squash can grow quite large, which is why they are sometimes they are sold in pieces. Its flesh is dry, and it’s best pureed and used in soups.

KABOCHA – It looks like the buttercup squash, but its ends are less squished and the blossom end is flat. Kabocha, a Japanese variety, are increasingly popular in the United States for their versatility and flavor.

LONG PIE PUMPKINS – When they get large, long pie pumpkins look like hefty, strangely colored baseball bats – they are dark green and bright orange. Smaller versions are more manageable and excellent for eating.

PIE PUMPKIN – Also called a sugar pumpkin, this is the smaller, manageable-looking symmetrically round pumpkin that is good for eating. Its flesh is good in sweet and savory dishes.

SPAGHETTI – Wet heat works best for this squash, so named because when cooked, the stringy flesh breaks into strands that resemble the pasta. Some cooks like it as a gluten-free substitute for spaghetti. I prefer it steamed with lemon, thyme and a little butter, and served as vegetable.

– Anne Mahle

No matter the variety, winter squash take longer to cook than summer squash. If you are planning to mash or puree the flesh, you can simply cut the winter squash in half, scoop out the seeds (try seasoning and baking the seeds for a snack), roast the squash in the oven and then scoop the flesh away from the skin.

But if you want diced winter squash or crescents, you will need to peel and cut it raw, tasks that require determination and knife skills.

This is how I like to cut it: Place the squash on a cutting board, and place the blade of a sharp chef’s knife midway between its stem and bottom end, what I call the equator. Hold the knife’s handle in one hand and use the other hand, clutched in a closed fist, to press down on the dull edge of the far end of the blade. Rock the knife back and forth to get the slicing started and once you have broken through the surface of the flesh, press straight down.

Don’t rely on arm strength alone – use the weight of your body to your advantage. If the knife gets stuck, leave it in the squash and grab the knife handle with both hands. Lift up and pound the squash on the counter to force the knife the rest of the way through the squash. The operation will be loud, but it does the job safely without getting your hands anywhere near the blade.

To cut winter squash into smaller pieces, always remember to keep the flat part of the squash against the cutting board.

Creamy Gnocchi with Roasted Butternut Squash, Pie Pumpkin and Asparagus

These rich gnocchi are perfect with sautéed bitter greens, such as kale or Swiss chard. I don’t remove the garlic clove from the cream mixture; for me getting the clove is a special bonus to mash into my sauce or spread on my bread.

Makes 4 to 6 generous servings

ROASTED SQUASH AND PUMPKIN:

3 pounds of butternut squash and pie pumpkin (about 8 cups), peeled, seeded and cut into 3/4-inch chunks

2 tablespoons olive oil

Several pinches of salt

Several grinds of fresh black pepper

GNOCCHI AND CREAM:

1 pound packaged or homemade gnocchi

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup chicken stock

1 large garlic clove

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 bunch asparagus (about 10 spears)

1 cup grated Asiago cheese

To make the squash, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Toss the squash and pumpkin with oil, salt and pepper and spread out on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast for 55 minutes to 1 hour, until they are tender and the edges are browning.

To make the gnocchi, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi to the pot and cook according to package or homemade instructions. Drain and spray with cold water to arrest the cooking. Drizzle very lightly with olive oil to prevent sticking.

While the squash and pumpkin are still roasting, bring the cream, stock, garlic, salt and nutmeg to a boil in a medium sauce pan. Boil for 5 minutes or more to reduce. Taste for salt.

Trim the ends of the asparagus and cut the spears into 1- to 2-inch lengths.

When the squash and pumpkin are tender, combine with the gnocchi, the asparagus and the cream mixture and transfer to a deep-dish baking pan or a 9 x 13-inch pan. Sprinkle with the cheese and bake for 40 minutes, or until the interior is bubbling and the edges beginning to brown.

Anne Mahle of Rockland is the author of “At Home, At Sea.” She can be contacted at:

chefannie@mainewindjammer.com