Although this column appears under the heading “It’s Worth the Trip,” the heading for this one ought to be “It’s Worth the Trips,” as one visit to Monhegan Island will convince you to return again and again to savor this little treasure a scant 10 miles off the coast.

It’s only about an hour out on cruise boats that’ll take you from Port Clyde, New Harbor or Boothbay Harbor, which leave early enough in the day that you can spend several hours exploring the scant square mile that comprises this rocky island, where explorer John Smith encountered Native Americans reaping their harvests from the prime fishing waters that surround it in 1614.

The majority of Monhegan’s 65 year-round residents still turn to the sea for their livelihoods. The boats bobbing in the tiny protected harbor between the island and its neighbor, Manana, attest that sea harvests still rule the local economy. In a unique application of local control, and in an effort to preserve the lobster resource, by community agreement the number of active island lobstermen is strictly limited, as is the number of traps set within two miles to the north, east and west of the island and three miles to the south. The season lasts only from Trap Day (Oct. 1) through the winter months.

For the past hundred years or more, however, Monhegan has been a summer retreat for artists and other visitors drawn by the sheer beauty of its rugged coastline and interior wilderness, its relative isolation and the resulting solitude, relaxed atmosphere and subdued pace.

Once away from the pier and folks coming ashore from the cruise boats – many of whom will spend their time there on the unpaved main street frequenting the shops, studios and eateries – you’ll find yourself practically alone if you opt to hike as many of the 12 miles of trails that circle the perimeter and course through the interior as you can.

And that was the plan son Jake, wife Marty and I had decided upon before our most recent visit last week.

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We were there to hike … and hike we did. Thanks to Monhegan Associates, founded in 1954 to protect the 480 acres of undeveloped wild lands outside the village, the trails are maintained and marked, and a helpful map, available for just a buck on the cruise boats or in convenient locations on the island is a must. The organization welcomes donations to help it sustain its work, and volunteers to help out on the trails on Friday mornings. And you can even adopt a trail of your own to maintain. Contact info@monheganassociates.org.

Since the island thrives on the delicate balance of wild lands, village life and visitors, the latter are asked to stay on the marked trails, carry out any litter and keep dogs on leashes. There’s no camping allowed, nor smoking nor fires outside the village area, and picking or disturbing wildflowers, moss, fungi or plants is prohibited.

The map suggests that if you’re visiting just for the day, you probably shouldn’t attempt the entire Cliff Trail that runs around virtually the entire perimeter, as it’s pretty rugged, exposed and difficult in spots with tree roots, steep climbs, sheer drops from 160-foot cliffs, and some dense growth. Hikes recommended for day visitors, that will take you to spectacular Whitehead and equally beautiful Burnthead, are indicated clearly on the map.

One especially rewarding, and relatively easy hike is to follow the Main Road and then the Lobster Cove Road south from the village to a narrow trail that will take you right out to the pounding surf on the craggy coast for beautiful views, picnic spots on the rocks, and a view of the wreck of the D.T. Sheridan, an old tugboat.

A special reward on this particular hike is that you’ll have to pass by, or even stop at, Monhegan Brewing along the way.

For a day, a week or longer, Monhegan has to be on everyone’s short list of Maine places to explore … again and again.

John Christie is an author and year-round Maine explorer. He and his son Josh write in Outdoors about places to enjoy the beauty that only Maine has to offer. He can be contacted at:

jchristie@fairpoint.net


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