The abundance of German-inspired lagers on the shelves of Maine bottle shops has become a sign of the season as reliable as chilly air and changing leaves.

These malt-forward Märzens, Oktoberfests and Festbiers complement the weather with bread aromas that remind me of thick sweaters and a crispness that serves as an ideal conclusion to an afternoon spent outdoors.

In Germany, the difference among these styles has historical significance. The beer served at the original Oktoberfest in Munich was a Märzen, gold to amber in color, with notes of bread, toast or bread crusts.

As consumer tastes changed, the favored beer became paler and hoppier, what we call an Oktoberfest beer today. It is slightly sweeter and tastes like white bread and water crackers. It often features a small amount of noble hops, which taste and smell floral or herbal. However, only breweries in Munich are allowed to call their beers Oktoberfest; everyone else in Germany makes Festbiers.

In the U.S., we don’t have the same regulations, so you’ll see the names Märzen, Oktoberfest and Festbier used interchangeably among German-style lagers. To see how true Maine brewers stick to these styles, I went to Portland’s Beer Hub in search of fall releases and selected three – from Banded Brewing, Rising Tide and Foundation – to test. Here’s what I found.

Oktoberfest Lager, Banded Brewing Co.

Style: Märzenbier

Tasting Notes: Dark amber with a white head. Smells like toasty bread and tastes like bread crusts. Low bitterness. Every time I drink this beer, I want a big, fat, soft pretzel to go with it (Novare Res Bier Café, here I come). I wouldn’t mind something grilled either as the caramelization of the food will mirror the beer flavors. True to style.

Tastybraü, Rising Tide Brewing Co. and Foundation Brewing Co.

Style: Bavarian lager

Tasting Notes: A lager is one of the two main types of beer (the other being ale). I would expect a Bavarian lager to be either a Märzen or a Festbier; this one turned out to be a Festbier. Pale gold with a white head. Smells like white bread with a hint of herbal hops and tastes like water crackers. Low bitterness, but is more bitter than Banded’s Oktoberfest Lager.

Gretel, Foundation Brewing Co.

Style: Oktoberfest lager

Tasting Notes: Golden with a white head, smells like white bread, honey and floral hops. Tastes like white bread with a hint of floral hops. Like Tastybraü, you could drink this beer with a German sausage, the malt will match the sweetness of the meat and the hops will cut through the fat. Since I’m vegetarian, I’ll pair this with a salad full of seasonal toppings, like nuts, dried fruits and cheese. True to style.

Caitlin Enz is a Certified Cicerone® who lives in Portland. Follow her on Instagram at @hops_and_brains.

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