I’m a pasta salad apologist. I never pay heed to the naysayers who decry it as the boring, flavorless side at cookouts and barbecues. In my eyes, pasta can do no wrong: hot or cold, creamy or bright, main dish or side. The dish comprises a shocking amount of my diet in the summer because, like hot or “traditional” pasta, it’s so easy to customize. Add whatever the farmers market has to offer, experiment with shapes and textures and play with bold, spicy, tangy flavors – pasta salads can do it all. While I’ve considered staying silent to safely take seconds, thirds and fourths of the otherwise untouched and unwanted side dish at parties, I’ve decided instead to share the love so that everyone can come to appreciate a delicious, thoughtfully prepared pasta salad as much as I do.

I understand where the skepticism comes from. I’ve had my fair share of mayo-caked rotini and barely salted, underdressed penne. But to view the dish only in this light is limiting and ignores all the possibilities of a great pasta salad. I find that there are three camps of pasta salad haters: One shuns the bland, boring salads that lack oomph, another shies away from the overly creamy, mayonnaise-laden sauces often featured in the dish, and the third finds itself in the first and second camps. Enter my answers to these quandaries: a vibrant green Aji Verde Pasta Salad and a light, zesty Chimichurri Pasta Salad.

These are not the typical pasta salads you’ll find at a cookout. My versions pull from South American-style sauces. Aji verde, a spicy green sauce from Peru, is often served with roasted or grilled chicken, and it gets its signature hue from handfuls of cilantro. In the Aji Verde Pasta Salad, I use a combination of aji amarillo paste, made from the hot Peruvian pepper; jalapeños for a spicy kick and squeezes of lime juice for a bright citrus boost. The sauce already traditionally features mayonnaise, but that creaminess is rounded out by the other bold flavors. Cotija cheese ties everything together, but you can use another salty, nutty cheese such as parmesan, if you like.

My Chimichurri Pasta Salad, on the other hand, stars the famous Argentine steak companion, known for its herbaceous, tangy flavor. The green salsa has all the makings of a great pasta salad dressing: olive oil, red wine vinegar and fresh herbs. In this version, a bit of red chile turns up the heat, and lemon zest and juice perk everything up (I use a lot – be liberal!). Parsley, cilantro and oregano are the usual suspects in the traditional condiment, but this pasta salad is ready to riff with whatever herbs sound good to you.

I also love these dishes because the sauces are wonderful in their own right. While traditionally served with meat, they’re right at home in vegetarian contexts, too. Make double batches and drizzle the aji verde over a bowl of black beans and long-grain rice, or toss roasted potatoes, peppers and onions in the chimichurri.

I’ve come to accept that my pasta salad fervor might never be universal, but if these two recipes can at least shift someone’s perspective on what it can be – herby! spicy! bold! – then my job is done.

Aji Verde Pasta Salad

This creamy pasta salad draws inspiration from aji verde, a Peruvian-style green sauce, which often includes mayonnaise, making it a natural fit for a pasta salad dressing. The jalapeño and aji amarillo, a spicy yellow chile paste, add a kick, but you can control the heat by using more or less of each.

6 to 10 servings (makes 12 cups pasta salad)

Total time: 25 mins

Where to buy: Aji amarillo and cotija cheese can be found in well-stocked supermarkets and Latin American markets.

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days. Let sit on the counter for 15 to 30 minutes before serving to take off the chill; you may want to add a little more lime juice to brighten the flavor.

Substitutions: No cotija cheese? Use parmesan. If you can’t find aji amarillo, add 1 more small jalapeño.

INGREDIENTS

1/4 teaspoon fine salt, plus more for the pasta water

1 pound short, ridged pasta, such as farfalle, rigatoni or cascatelli

2 cups (2 ounces) fresh cilantro leaves

1/2 cup mayonnaise

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 2 limes); plus lime wedges, for serving

2 tablespoons aji amarillo

2 jalapeños, roughly chopped, seeds and ribs removed

2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

2 1/2 cups corn, fresh or thawed if frozen

4 to 5 scallions (1 1/2 ounces), chopped

1/3 cup (3 ounces) cotija cheese, crumbled, plus more for serving

DIRECTIONS

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to the package instructions, until al dente. Drain and rinse with cool running water to remove excess starch, 10 to 15 seconds.

While the pasta is cooking, in a blender, combine the cilantro, mayonnaise, lime juice, aji amarillo, jalapeños, garlic and salt and blend until mostly smooth (some green flecks of cilantro are okay).

In a large bowl, stir together the pasta with the sauce, corn, scallions and cotija cheese. Serve while still slightly warm, with more crumbled cotija on top, if desired.

Nutrition | Per serving (scant 1 1/4 cups), based on 10: 310 calories, 45g carbohydrates, 8mg cholesterol, 11g fat, 3g fiber, 9g protein, 2g saturated fat, 248mg sodium, 3g sugar

Chimichurri Pasta Salad

This pasta salad borrows one of the most famous steak accompaniments and uses it as a fresh, vibrant dressing. Parsley and cilantro add herbaceous flair, and red chile pepper lends a gentle heat. The dish is packed with pantry staples, making it easy to throw together for a cookout or potluck.

6 to 10 servings (makes 12 cups pasta salad)

Total time: 30 mins

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days. Let sit on the counter for 15 to 30 minutes before serving to take off the chill. You may want to add a few dashes of red wine vinegar and olive oil to brighten.

Ingredients

1/2 teaspoon fine salt, plus more for the pasta water

1 pound short, ridged pasta, such as farfalle, rigatoni or cascatelli

1/2 cup olive oil, divided

1 cup (1 ounce) fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1/2 cup (1/2 ounce) fresh cilantro leaves

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1 red chile, seeds and ribs removed, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced or finely grated

1 teaspoon fresh oregano, minced

1 pinch granulated sugar

1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved

1 (15-ounce) can white beans, such as cannellini, navy or Great Northern, rinsed and drained

1/2 medium red onion (4 ounces total), finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest (from 2 lemons), plus more for serving

lemon wedges, for serving

DIRECTIONS

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to the package instructions, until al dente. Drain and rinse with cool running water to remove excess starch, 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer the pasta to a large bowl and toss with 1/4 cup of the olive oil to prevent it from sticking together.

In a food processor or blender, combine the parsley, cilantro, vinegar, the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil, chile, garlic, oregano, salt and sugar. Pulse until the cilantro and parsley are finely chopped, but some flecks of leaves remain – the sauce shouldn’t be completely smooth.

Transfer the chimichurri sauce to the bowl with the pasta; add the tomatoes, beans, onions and lemon zest and toss to thoroughly combine. Taste and season with more salt, if desired.

Serve with lemon wedges and zest.

Nutrition | Per serving (scant 1 1/4 cup), based on 10: 300 calories, 41g carbohydrates, 0mg cholesterol, 12g fat, 3g fiber, 8g protein, 2g saturated fat, 159mg sodium, 3g sugar

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