“It ain’t gonna slide down easy if it ain’t cheesy!” That’s one of the signature lines of Tanara Mallory, the TikTok star who pokes fun at viral cooking videos by exclaiming, “Everybody’s so creative!”

It’s also not too far from my mindset when I first started cooking vegetarian dishes. A dozen years ago, I leaned so heavily on eggs and cheese as a crutch, you’d be forgiven for not necessarily noticing the vegetables on the plate. I’ve come a long way. These days, I eat very little dairy cheese, preferring to showcase plants in my cooking, with little to no need for adornment by animal products.

But I still have a soft spot (pun intended) for one cheese in particular: burrata, the mash-up of mozzarella and cream that, when it is fresh, adds a dose of indulgence to anything you pair it with. I still remember the first time I had a burrata appetizer at D.C.’s Centrolina restaurant; I was with a colleague from the Food team, and we marveled at how transcendent the simple marriage of burrata and peak produce could be. That time of year, it was cherries, and the duo was finished with little more than sublime olive oil and flaky sea salt. I considered asking chef/owner Amy Brandwein for a recipe, but it seemed almost too simple to write down.

A salad from Sheela Prakash’s delightful new book, “Salad Seasons,” takes a similar approach by combining burrata with a springtime star – sugar snap peas. Prakash’s point is made clear by the title’s plurality: Salad is not just for the warm-weather months. As she writes, “a salad made with in-season goodies can be on the center of your table even in the depths of winter.”

In six months, I have no doubt, I’ll be tempted by her blackened broccoli rabe Caesar. But here and now, I’m grabbing what’s pouring out of markets and gardens, and that includes sugar snaps. My husband is a fan, too; he still talks about the day years ago when, on my sister and brother-in-law’s Maine homestead, he picked a sugar snap off the vine and couldn’t believe how good it tasted without a single application of seasoning or heat. It helped sell him on my own attempts to grow food in our D.C. backyard.

Indeed, you can’t go wrong by eating peak-season sugar snaps raw. But for this salad, Prakash has you add even more layers of flavor, simply by searing them in a hot skillet and tossing them with soft red onions and a lemony vinaigrette. When you scatter them around a ball or two of burrata on a platter, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with sumac and salt, then take a bite, you’ll wonder why you never thought of this before. Creamy meets crunchy, sweet meets tart, perfection meets … perfection.

And yet. For those of you who don’t eat dairy at all, let me reassure you. While burrata is unique, I’ve made this same salad with vegan mozzarella (my favorite is Miyoko’s brand) and even silken tofu, and it’s outstanding. Even the sugar snaps can be swapped out for snow peas, asparagus or green beans. Just make sure whatever you use is at its freshest, and it’ll go down easy.

Scorched Sugar Snap Pea and Burrata Salad

This is a showstopper of a salad, featuring juicy, crunchy, sweet sugar snap peas in a lemony vinaigrette and paired with creamy, dreamy, indulgent burrata. Serve as a light main course or starter, with or without bread.

Servings: 4 per serving (1 cup of snap peas and 2 ounces burrata)

Total time: 25 minutes

Substitutions

No sugar snaps? Use snow peas, green beans or asparagus.

Burrata >> fresh mozzarella, vegan mozzarella or silken tofu.

Mint >> parsley or cilantro.

Lemon >> lime or apple cider vinegar.

Sumac >> za’atar or lemon zest.

INGREDIENTS

Servings: 4 per serving (1 cup snap peas and 2 ounces burrata)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for serving

1/2 medium red onion (5 ounces total), thinly sliced

1/2 teaspoon fine salt, divided, plus more to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided, plus more to taste

1 pound sugar snap peas, tough strings removed

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves

1 teaspoon ground sumac, plus more for serving

1 (8-ounce) ball or 2 (4-ounce) balls burrata cheese

Flaky sea salt, for serving

DIRECTIONS

In a large cast-iron or other heavy skillet over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil until it shimmers. Add the onion, season with 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and 1/8 teaspoon of the pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned in spots, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.

Working in batches if needed to avoid overcrowding, add the peas to the skillet in a single layer and cook, undisturbed, until charred in spots on the bottom, 2 to 4 minutes. Season with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt and 1/8 teaspoon of pepper. Keep cooking, stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender and lightly browned in spots all over, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the onion.

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil, the lemon juice, mint and sumac to the bowl and toss to combine. Taste, and season with more salt and pepper as needed.

Place the burrata in the center of a serving platter and spoon the snap pea mixture around. Drizzle with a little more olive oil, and sprinkle with a little more sumac and a few pinches of flaky sea salt. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Nutritional information per serving (1 cup snap peas and 2 ounces burrata): Calories: 296; Carbohydrates: 13 g; Cholesterol: 40 mg; Fat: 24 g; Fiber: 4 g; Protein: 13 g; Saturated Fat: 9 g; Sodium: 469 mg; Sugar: 6 g.

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