Last summer, at the doctor’s appointment that confirmed I was pregnant, my obstetrician gave me lots of advice: A cup of coffee a day was a-OK; no need to spring for fancy prenatal vitamins – any daily multivitamin was fine; and, most memorably: “Make sure you increase your calcium intake,” she said with a big smile. “After all, your body is growing new, tiny bones right now.”

In that moment, the magnitude of the situation crystallized in my mind. As she listed a few common sources of calcium – dairy products, leafy greens, tofu – I had a vision of a miniature skeleton growing in my belly, and a sudden, urgent sense of purpose. “Oh, and sardines,” she added. “The bone-in ones in the can.”

Later that day, I bought eight cans of sardines. I love sardines, whether fresh or preserved. The only problem was that I was well into my first trimester, and fishy smells prompted my gag reflex.

Still, I was determined. I put on a face mask in an attempt to minimize the stench and peeled open a can.

I was picturing a salad that had the heft of a sandwich, so I started by cubing a few slices of whole-grain sourdough. As the croutons crisped in an olive oil-slicked skillet, I sprinkled them with lemon-pepper seasoning salt. While they were cooling, I chopped up the vegetables I happened to have on hand, including radishes, cucumbers and celery. Next, I reached for raw red onion, fresh dill, parsley and lemon – bold, complementary flavors that could compete with the fishiness.

I tossed the vegetables together before adding the sardines and the oil they were packed in. The chopped herbs went in next, followed by the lemon’s zest and juice. As I mixed, a simple dressing formed. Finally, I pushed the mask away from my mouth and took a bite. It needed a bit of salt and pepper, and, of course, the croutons.

By this point, I was quite hungry, so I started eating it out of the mixing bowl. When my partner, Joe, walked into the kitchen, I asked whether he was hungry. He served himself as I started cleaning up, already thinking about my next meal.

I hadn’t planned on developing a new recipe that day – I was focused on eating well, on “growing new, tiny bones.” But, as Joe finished his plate, he said: “This is pretty good. You should write this one down.”

Winter Salad with Crunchy Greens and Sardines

2 to 3 servings (makes 6 cups)

Total time: 30 mins

Canned sardines get dressed up in this no-cook, one-bowl chopped salad. Celery, cucumbers, radishes and croutons add crunch, while lots of herbs and lemon juice keep it fresh. For best results, use oil-packed sardines.

Storage: Refrigerate, preferably without the croutons, for up to 4 days.

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed

2 slices fresh, whole-grain bread, cubed

1/2 teaspoon seasoning salt, such as lemon-pepper

3 ribs celery, sliced

3 small red radishes, halved and thinly sliced

2 Persian cucumbers, halved and sliced

1 romaine lettuce heart, chopped

1/2 small red onion (2 ounces total), thinly sliced

Fine salt

Freshly cracked black pepper

1 (4- to 6-ounce) can olive-oil-packed sardines

6 sprigs fresh dill, finely chopped

6 sprigs fresh parsley, finely chopped

1 large lemon

STEPS

In a medium skillet over medium heat, heat the oil until it shimmers. Add the bread and sprinkle in the seasoning salt. Stir or shake the pan until the bread cubes are lightly coated in oil, adding more oil if needed. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the bread is crisp and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In a large serving bowl, combine the celery, radishes, cucumbers, romaine and onion. Toss to combine, then season with a small pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper.

Add the sardines, along with their oil, breaking them into bite-size pieces as you toss them with the vegetables. Add the dill and parsley, and gently toss to combine.

Finely grate the zest of the lemon into the bowl, then halve the lemon and add all of its juice to the salad. Taste, and adjust the salt and pepper to your liking. Add the croutons and toss well before serving, family-style.

Substitutions: In place of sardines, you could use canned tuna, salmon or trout. Roasted shrimp would also work well. To go fishless, consider adding leftover rotisserie chicken or a (drained and rinsed) can of white beans such as cannellini or chickpeas.

Nutrition per serving (2 cups): 231 calories, 17g carbohydrates, 44mg cholesterol, 14g fat, 4g fiber, 11g protein, 2g saturated fat, 487mg sodium, 6g sugar

Copy the Story Link

« Previous

Local boy makes good in the gastronomic capital of Paris

Next »

Dine Out Maine: A former Old Port sports bar transformed